Dress codes are as old as clothing itself. For centuries, clothing has been a wearable status symbol; fashion, a weapon in struggles for social change; and dress codes, a way to maintain political control. Merchants who dressed like princes and butchers’ wives wearing gem-encrusted crowns were public enemies in medieval societies structured by social hierarchy and defined by spectacle. In Tudor England, silk, velvet, and fur were reserved for the nobility and ballooning pants called “trunk hose” could be considered a menace to good order. The Renaissance era Florentine patriarch Cosimo de Medici captured the power of fashion and dress codes when he remarked, “One can make a gentleman from two yards of red cloth.” Dress codes evolved along with the social and political ideals of the day, but they always reflected struggles for power and status. In the 1700s, South Carolina’s “Negro Act” made it illegal for Black people to dress “above their condition.” In the 1920s, the bobbed hair and form-fitting dresses worn by free-spirited flappers were banned in workplaces throughout the United States and in the 1940s the baggy zoot suits favored by Black and Latino men caused riots in cities from coast to coast. Continuer la lecture de Publication : “Dress Codes : How the Laws of Fashion Made History”
Le huis-clos dans l’atelier, où l’architecte exerce un art autoréférentiel, qui puise ses modèles en lui-même, plus que dans la nature, résonne de l’expérience et de la mémoire des visites in situ des édifices et des espaces réels, parfois parcourus lors de lointains périples. L’intention qui préside au choix du modèle, précède le processus de connaissance. Ce souci, ce désir, qui motivent les enquêtes et l’extension des corpus, participent d’un projet plus ou moins collectif ou individuel, plus ou moins intuitif ou explicité : une ambition d’édifier. De sorte que le moment, technique en apparence, de l’observation et du travail graphique, qui permettent de réduire un objet complexe à une série limitée de figures, ou de photographies, trouve son ressort dans un souci de distinction par la découverte et la compréhension d’objets inédits ; par la révision des savoirs préétablis ; ou puise son impulsion, parfois obscure, dans des expériences esthétiques ou mentales plus personnelles ou intimes. Continuer la lecture de Publication : “L’architecte et ses modèles : Intentions, connaissance et projets à la période contemporaine”.
À l’abri dans les chapelles latérales, les treize Mays encore conservés à Notre-Dame de Paris ont heureusement été épargnés par l’incendie d’avril 2019 qui a gravement affecté la cathédrale. Le grand public a découvert, à cette occasion, l’existence de cet ensemble exceptionnel de soixante-seize peintures religieuses du Grand Siècle, véritable premier musée de la peinture française. Continuer la lecture de Publication : “Les Mays de Notre-Dame de Paris (1630-1707)”.
The painterly style known as bravura emerged in sixteenth-century Venice and spread throughout Europe during the seventeenth century. While earlier artistic movements presented a polished image of the artist by downplaying the creative process, bravura celebrated a painter’s distinct materials, virtuosic execution, and theatrical showmanship. This resulted in the further development of innovative techniques and a popular understanding of the artist as a weapon-wielding acrobat, impetuous wunderkind, and daring rebel. In Bravura, Nicola Suthor offers the first in-depth consideration of bravura as an artistic and cultural phenomenon. Through history, etymology, and in-depth analysis of works by such important painters as Franҫois Boucher, Caravaggio, Francisco Goya, Frans Hals, Peter Paul Rubens, Tintoretto, and Diego Velázquez, Suthor explores the key elements defining bravura’s richness and power. Continuer la lecture de Publication : “Bravura : Virtuosity and Ambition in Early Modern European Painting”.
Thomas Gainsborough’s (1727–88) London years, from 1774 to 1788, were the pinnacle and conclusion of his career. They coincided with the establishment of the Royal Academy, of which Gainsborough was a founding member, and the city’s ascendance as a center for the arts. This is a meticulously researched and readable account of how Gainsborough designed his home and studio and maintained a growing schedule of influential patrons, making a place for himself in the art world of late-18th-century London. New material about Gainsborough’s technique is based on examinations of his pictures and firsthand accounts by studio visitors. His fractious relationship with the Royal Academy and its exhibition culture is reexamined through the works he sent to its annual shows. The full range of Gainsborough’s art, from fashionable portraits to landscapes and fancy pictures, is addressed in this major contribution, not just to the study of a great artist, but to 18th-century studies in general. Continuer la lecture de Publication : “Gainsborough in London”.
In this sumptuously illustrated volume, eminent art historian Sir Christopher White places the portraiture of renowned Flemish painter Anthony Van Dyck (1599–1641) in context among the work of his contemporaries working in and around the courts of seventeenth-century Europe. Van Dyck’s artistic development is charted through his travels, beginning in his native Antwerp, then to England, Italy, Brussels, the Hague, and back again. Combining historical insights with a discerning appreciation of the work, White brings Van Dyck’s paintings to life, showing how the virtuoso not only admired his artistic predecessors and rivals but refashioned what he learned from them into new kind of portraiture. Beautifully produced and a pleasure to read, this book is an important contribution to the literature on a celebrated painter.
American Furniture, 1650–1840: Highlights from the Philadelphia Museum of Art is the first publication dedicated to one of the finest collections of its type in the country. Best known for furniture by artisans from Philadelphia and southeastern Pennsylvania, the museum’s collection includes significant examples from cities and regions farther afield. Interpretive texts for each work focus on design sources, showing how early American furniture participated in an international visual language. A vibrant local economy was bolstered by coastal trade bringing Caribbean mahogany and European imports that continued to influence local production. By the 1740s Philadelphia had developed a distinctive idiom and led the developing nation in style and aesthetics. This volume provides an important resource for scholars of American furniture, illuminates the cultural and mercantile life of the fledgling nation, and offers a lively introduction to the donors, curators, and personalities who have shaped the institution from its earliest days to the present. Continuer la lecture de Publication : “American Furniture, 1650–1840 : Highlights from the Philadelphia Museum of Art”.
In Applied Emblems in the Cathedral of Lugo, Carme López Calderón explores the emblematic programme found in the Chapel of Nuestra Señora de los Ojos Grandes (Galicia, Spain), consisting of fifty-eight emblems painted c. 1735. Making use of a wide range of printed sources, the author delves into the meaning of each emblem and provides an all-encompassing interpretation of this cycle, which can rightly be described as the richest and most complete programme of Marian applied emblematics in the Iberian Peninsula.
This book examines ephemeral exhibitions from 1750 to 1918. In an era of acceleration and elusiveness, these transient spaces functioned as microcosms in which reality was shown, simulated, staged, imagined, experienced and known. They therefore had a dimension of spectacle to them, as the volume demonstrates. Against this backdrop, the different chapters deal with a plethora of spaces and spatial installations: the wunderkammer, the spectacle garden, cosmoramas and panoramas, the literary space, the temporary museum, and the alternative exhibition space.
The concepts of purity and contamination preoccupied early modern Europeans fundamentally, structuring virtually every aspect of their lives, not least how they created and experienced works of art and the built environment. In an era that saw a great number of objects and people in motion, the meteoric rise of new artistic and building technologies, and religious upheaval exert new pressures on art and its institutions, anxieties about the pure and the contaminated – distinctions between the clean and unclean, sameness and difference, self and other, organization and its absence – took on heightened importance. In this series of geographically and methodologically wide-ranging essays, thirteen leading historians of art and architecture grapple with the complex ways that early modern actors negotiated these concerns, covering topics as diverse as Michelangelo’s unfinished sculptures, Venetian plague hospitals, Spanish-Muslim tapestries, and emergency currency. The resulting volume offers surprising new insights into the period and into the modern disciplinary routines of art and architectural history.
This book offers a new perspective on the art of the Dutch Golden Age by exploring the interaction between the gift’s symbolic economy of reciprocity and obligation and the artistic culture of early modern Holland. Gifts of art were pervasive in seventeenth-century Europe and many Dutch artists, like their counterparts elsewhere, embraced gift giving to cultivate relations with patrons, art lovers, and other members of their social networks. Rembrandt also created distinctive works to function within a context of gift exchange, and both Rembrandt and Vermeer engaged the ethics of the gift to identify their creative labor as motivated by what contemporaries called a “love of art,” not materialistic gain. In the merchant republic’s vibrant market for art, networks of gift relations and the anti-economic rhetoric of the gift mingled with the growing dimension of commerce, revealing a unique chapter in the interconnected history of gift giving and art making. Continuer la lecture de Publication : “Rembrandt, Vermeer, and the Gift in Seventeenth-Century Dutch Art”.
Au cours des trois dernières décennies du XVIIIe siècle, une véritable fascination s’empara des élites d’Europe pour les découvertes extraordinaires révélées par les fouilles des cités enfouies, des tombes étrusques et des villas de l’Empire romain, en Italie. Le passé lointain resurgit brusquement dans le présent, et architecture, mobilier, objets du quotidien… furent réinventés à son image.
Nul endroit en France n’incarna mieux cette révolution esthétique et culturelle que Rambouillet, domaine des chasses et refuge intime des cours de Louis XVI et de Napoléon Ier. Au printemps 2021, à Rambouillet, salons d’apparat, petits appartements et laiterie de la Reine vont renaître et se remeubler d’objets de fouilles, de maquettes et dessins du Grand Tour, de tableaux d’Hubert Robert, d’ensembles de mobilier et décors des XVIIIe et XIXe siècles de Jacob, Percier et Fontaine, de précieuses porcelaines de Sèvres et Wedgwood. Continuer la lecture de Publication : “Vivre à l’Antique de Marie-Antoinette à Napoléon 1er”.
Portraiture and Friendship in Enlightenment France examines how new and often contradictory ideas about friendship were enacted in the lives of artists in the eighteenth century. It demonstrates that portraits resulted from and generated new ideas about friendship by analyzing the creation, exchange, and display of portraits alongside discussions of friendship in philosophical and academic discourse, exhibition criticism, personal diaries, and correspondence. This study provides a deeper understanding of how artists took advantage of changing conceptions of social relationships and used portraiture to make visible new ideas about friendship that were driven by Enlightenment thought. Continuer la lecture de Publication : “Portraiture and Friendship in Enlightenment France”.