Colloque : « Moving Beyond Paris and London : Influences, Circulation, and Rivalries in Fashion and Textiles between France and England, 1700–1914 ».

Type : colloque.
Date : 13-14 octobre 2017.
Lieu : IHTP et Musée Cognacq Jay, Paris.

Co-organised by the LARCA/ Paris Diderot, the IHTP-CNRS and the Musée Cognacq Jay, the conference will take place in the IHTP 59/61 rue Pouchet, 75017 on the 13th and in the Musée Cognacq Jay, 8 rue Elzevir 75003 Paris on the 14th.

The keynote addresses will be given by Lesley Miller (Head of Textile and Dress at the V&A, London) and Zara Anishanslin (History, University of Delaware). The event is free and open to all, but registration is compulsory.

Programme

Vendredi 13 octobre 2017

9.00 Welcome and Coffee

9.30 Mapping Cross-Channel Textile Rivalries
• Fabrice Bensimon, Lace makers between Nottingham and Calais, 1816–1860
• Luc Rojas, Observer la fabrique de Coventry: Les rubaniers stéphanois à la recherche d’information
• Courtney Wilder, Band Apart: Printing ‘Rainbow’ Designs for Walls and Wardrobes in Alsace and Northern England, 1819–1851

11.00 Coffee Break

11.30 Keynote Address
• Lesley Miller (conservatrice en chef des collections mode et textiles au Victoria & Albert Museum, Londres), Lyon in London: Seduction by Silk at the End of the Seven Years War

12.30 Lunch

14.00 Entente cordiale ? Aesthetic and Economic Circulations of Embroidery
• Tabitha Baker, From Lyon and Paris to London: Commercial Networks within the French Embroidery Trade and the Role of the English Gentleman Consumer, 1748–1785
• Isa Fleischman-Heck, Manly French Style Versus Feminine English Taste: Pictorial Embroideries in France and England at the End of the 18th Century

15.00 Coffee Break

15.15 Competing for Cotton
• Jessica Barker, Toile de Jouy / Cloth of England: Copperplate Textile Printing in England and France, 1752–1820
• Ariane Fennetaux, Franco-British Cotton Rivalries: Empire, Trade, and Technology in the 18th Century

Samedi 14 octobre 2017

9.30 Welcome and Coffee

9.50 Opening Remarks by Rose-Marie Mousseaux (Directrice du Musée Cognacq-Jay)

10.00 Business Means Business: Fashion Trades and Commercial Strategies
• Pierre-Henri Biger, Eventails et éventaillistes entre la France et l’Angleterre aux XVIII et XIXe siècles
• Audrey Millet, Protéger les dessins textiles: L’invention de la propriété industrielle comme négation du processus créatif, une compétition France-Angleterre (XVIIe–XIXe siècles)
• Véronique Pouillard and Waleria Dorogova, Couture Limited: The Short Lived Britanisation of French Fashion

11.30 Coffee Break

12.00 Keynote Address
• Zara Anishanslin (University of Delaware), An English and Even a Female Hand: Anna Maria Garthwaite, Anglo-French Rivalry, and the Gendered Politics of Flowered Silk

13.00 Lunch

14.30 Embodying Fashion Rivalries
• Elise Urbain Ruano, Une figure pré-romantique? La duchesse d’Orléans et la mode anglaise à la veille de la Révolution française
• César Imbert, Une garde-robe au service de l’Empire: l’influence vestimentaire d’Eugénie en Angleterre
• Matthew Keagle, More than Red and White: Franco-British Reform and Military Dress in the Late Ancien Régime

16.30 Guided Tour of the Cognacq-Jay Collections with Director Rose-Marie Mousseaux