Colloque : « Moving Beyond Paris and London : Influences, Circulation, and Rivalries in Fashion and Textiles between France and England, 1700–1914 ».

Type : colloque.
Date : 13-14 octobre 2017.
Lieu : IHTP et Musée Cognacq Jay, Paris.

Co-organised by the LARCA/ Paris Diderot, the IHTP-CNRS and the Musée Cognacq Jay, the conference will take place in the IHTP 59/61 rue Pouchet, 75017 on the 13th and in the Musée Cognacq Jay, 8 rue Elzevir 75003 Paris on the 14th.

The keynote addresses will be given by Lesley Miller (Head of Textile and Dress at the V&A, London) and Zara Anishanslin (History, University of Delaware). The event is free and open to all, but registration is compulsory.


Vendredi 13 octobre 2017

9.00 Welcome and Coffee

9.30 Mapping Cross-Channel Textile Rivalries
• Fabrice Bensimon, Lace makers between Nottingham and Calais, 1816–1860
• Luc Rojas, Observer la fabrique de Coventry: Les rubaniers stéphanois à la recherche d’information
• Courtney Wilder, Band Apart: Printing ‘Rainbow’ Designs for Walls and Wardrobes in Alsace and Northern England, 1819–1851

11.00 Coffee Break

11.30 Keynote Address
• Lesley Miller (conservatrice en chef des collections mode et textiles au Victoria & Albert Museum, Londres), Lyon in London: Seduction by Silk at the End of the Seven Years War

12.30 Lunch

14.00 Entente cordiale ? Aesthetic and Economic Circulations of Embroidery
• Tabitha Baker, From Lyon and Paris to London: Commercial Networks within the French Embroidery Trade and the Role of the English Gentleman Consumer, 1748–1785
• Isa Fleischman-Heck, Manly French Style Versus Feminine English Taste: Pictorial Embroideries in France and England at the End of the 18th Century

15.00 Coffee Break

15.15 Competing for Cotton
• Jessica Barker, Toile de Jouy / Cloth of England: Copperplate Textile Printing in England and France, 1752–1820
• Ariane Fennetaux, Franco-British Cotton Rivalries: Empire, Trade, and Technology in the 18th Century

Samedi 14 octobre 2017

9.30 Welcome and Coffee

9.50 Opening Remarks by Rose-Marie Mousseaux (Directrice du Musée Cognacq-Jay)

10.00 Business Means Business: Fashion Trades and Commercial Strategies
• Pierre-Henri Biger, Eventails et éventaillistes entre la France et l’Angleterre aux XVIII et XIXe siècles
• Audrey Millet, Protéger les dessins textiles: L’invention de la propriété industrielle comme négation du processus créatif, une compétition France-Angleterre (XVIIe–XIXe siècles)
• Véronique Pouillard and Waleria Dorogova, Couture Limited: The Short Lived Britanisation of French Fashion

11.30 Coffee Break

12.00 Keynote Address
• Zara Anishanslin (University of Delaware), An English and Even a Female Hand: Anna Maria Garthwaite, Anglo-French Rivalry, and the Gendered Politics of Flowered Silk

13.00 Lunch

14.30 Embodying Fashion Rivalries
• Elise Urbain Ruano, Une figure pré-romantique? La duchesse d’Orléans et la mode anglaise à la veille de la Révolution française
• César Imbert, Une garde-robe au service de l’Empire: l’influence vestimentaire d’Eugénie en Angleterre
• Matthew Keagle, More than Red and White: Franco-British Reform and Military Dress in the Late Ancien Régime

16.30 Guided Tour of the Cognacq-Jay Collections with Director Rose-Marie Mousseaux