Journée d’étude : “Fabrications : Designing for Silk in the Eighteenth Century”.

Anne Maria Garthwaite, Motif pour tissu de soie, ca. 1730, aquarelle sur papier, 53 x 22 cm, Londres, Victoria and Albert Museum.

Type : journée d’étude.
Date : 05 mars 2016.
Lieu : Kenneth Clark Lecture Theatre, The Courtauld Institute of Art, Somerset House, Strand, Londres.
Sous la direction de : Lesley Miller (The Victoria and Albert Museum) et Katie Scott (The Courtauld Institute of Art).

Joubert de la Hiberderie’s Le Dessinateur d’étoffes d’or, d’argent, et de soie (1765) was the first book to be published on textile design in Europe. In preparation for the publication of an English translation and critical edition of the text this one day conference calls for papers that will analyse, critique, contextualise, review or otherwise engage with the Le dessinateur in the light of its themes: production, design, technology, education, botany and art. Joubert’s manual argues for both a liberal and a technological education for the ideal designer. Such a person must, he argues, have detailed knowledge of the materials, technologies and traditions of patterned silk in order successfully to propose new designs; he or she must also have taste and an eye for beauty, which call, he says, for travel in order to see both the beauties of nature and those of art gathered in the gardens and galleries of Paris and the île de France.

Programme :

9.15 Welcome.

9.20 Lesley Miller, Introduction : Joubert, his book and his world.

9.40 Keynote : Giorgio Riello, Textile Trajectories : Fibres, Fabrics and Fashion in the early modern world.

10.20 Jean-Paul Leclerq, Weave and pattern, naming textiles : Le Dessinateur in a publishing context.

11.00 Coffee.

11.20 Isabella Campagnol, The Venetian Point of View: Pietro d’Avanzo and the ‘Regole per mecanica del telaio da seta’.

12.00 Rosa Creixell et Victoria de Lorenzo, Fabricating Novelty : The Barcelona Silk Trade in the Eighteenth Century.

12.40 Discussion.

13.00 Lunch.

14.00 Anna Jolly, The Orders of Silk Design.

14.40 Maximilien Durand et Marie-Hélène Guelton, À propos de la “marque distinctive” de Philippe de Lasalle: surmonter la crise de 1771-1772 en produisant des étoffes mélangées (soie, schappe de soie et lin) au dessin nouveau.

15.20 Tea.

15.50 Iris Moon, A Rose is a Rose is a Rose : Botany and Patterns of Knowledge in ‘Le Dessinateur d’étoffes d’or, d’argent, et de soie’.

16.30 Audrey Millet, From the Theory of Joubert to the practice of Henri Lebert: Paris, or the textile designer’s grand tour (c. 1750-c.1850).

17.10 Madelyn Shaw, ‘An Eye for beauty, A Taste for Novelty’: The Art Department of H.R. Mallinson & Co., Inc., 1913-1931.

17.50 Closing Discussion.